Today is a new tutorial on the leaks of your atomizers that we offer you! After our small beginner tutorial on how to avoid these famous leaks that can ruin your life, today we go into a dossier dealing first with the causes of atomizer leaks and then how to get rid of them.
KNOW EVERYTHING ABOUT LEAKS ON YOUR ATOMIZERS!
We must distinguish three different types of leaks on an atomizer:
- The most common is the one that floods our jeans when filling.
- The one that empties the tank when the atomizer is inactive, placed on the table.
- Then, there is the most pervert, which we do not see immediately and which weights the fingers when we vape.
Finally, there is sometimes a distinctive sign that announces the escape, it is the gurgling that you hear with each aspiration, a sign of engorged resistance.
But before talking to you about these various leaks, it is important to understand the principle of pressure and depression which is exerted in an atomizer. For this, a simple experiment will allow to better understand the problem of leaks, through an exercise found on the net (reference: http://phymain.unisciel.fr/leau-est-arretee-par-le-papier/ ) and easy to do.
Place a postcard on top, hold it firmly against the opening and gently invert the glass.
Gently let go of the postcard: it stays "glued" against the glass and the water does not flow.
SOME EXPLANATIONS :
It is atmospheric pressure that holds the card.
If the glass is filled to the brim before being turned over, it contains only water. It is then the water pressure which is exerted on the upper face of the card while its lower face is subjected to the pressure of atmospheric air.
The atmospheric pressure is around 1000 hPa and it corresponds to the pressure exerted by a 10 m high water column. The atmospheric pressure being higher than the pressure of the water in the glass, it is understandable why the card is subjected to a resultant pressure force directed upwards which keeps it "glued" against the edge of the glass.
If the glass is not completely filled with water before being spilled, it contains water and air. The pressure exerted on the upper face of the card is then equal to the pressure exerted by the water increased by the pressure of the air enclosed in the glass. The air pressure in the glass is lower than atmospheric pressure because the postcard is generally slightly curved outwards, or because the experimenter managed to get some water out (this is a question of experimental skill). The pressure on the upper face then decreases enough so that the atmospheric pressure exerted on its other face is sufficient to keep the card in balance against the glass.
The postcard is only used to prevent the breaking of the water surface. In the case of a pipette used in chemistry, the lower surface of the water is small enough not to rupture: the liquid does not flow spontaneously.
We can therefore, in the previous experiment, replace the postcard with fine tulle which prevents the surface of the water from breaking. As soon as the surface of the water is broken, air can get into the water and cause it to flow out of the glass.
If we schematize an atomizer and if we draw a parallel with this experience by including new elements to compare and compare these sets, we will better understand our problem. Namely: our leaks.
This is the experience of glass to which we have added in this diagram, a cap as a "top cap".
Inside the glass, we insert an element, with two small holes obstructed by cotton wool, which contains only vacuum. This represents the evaporation chamber (empty) and the capillary (cotton wool). In the center of the box, we made a hole smaller than the diameter of this new element to schematize the airflow.
The last diagram is used to understand why it is important to close the airflow when the top cap is open and hence the interest of maintaining the sheet by a support element which represents the base of the atomizer which is, screwed to the tray.
Let's now diagram, the atomizer :
Let's take again the case of the most common leak
When filling. What is going on ?
When you remove the top cap, you create an imbalance between air and liquid.
The pressure of the atmosphere being greater than that of the liquid, it is imperative to close the airflow to maintain a "back pressure" under the tank and keep a balance so that the capillary has effective porosity. If the airflow is not closed, the weight of the air pressure on the liquid, will force the capillary to engulf the fluid without restraint since no constraint (contrary pressure) pushes against the direction.
Here is a first leak which can very easily be avoided.
You just have to close the airflow before removing the top cap to fill the tank. Otherwise, some old atomizers (clearomizer or cartomizer), do not have a ring to obstruct the air flow, the simplest maneuver is to close it with the thumb to help maintain reverse pressure, before '' open the tank, fill it and close it. When the maneuver is finished, you can remove your thumb.
Another case in point: atomizers which unscrew from the base to be filled. Fill, screw back, then plug the airflow before putting your atomizer the right way. Once the liquid has come down, you remove your finger.
Your atomizer empties slowly without touching it, so what should be done?
It is possible that your atomizer has a bad seal, it could be due to a cracked tank, a lost seal or in bad condition. Anyway, this disturbs the balance of forces somewhat and the residual liquid will slowly accumulate in the base of the atomizer and eventually ooze to escape through the airhole (or pyrex if that - this is cracked).
This may be due to improper filling and compression in the chamber which has not yet been established. Just evacuate the excess juice by steaming a few tafs on a higher power, until the juice evaporates, then return to its classic vape power, before arriving at the dry hit.
The leak that we do not see right away and that poisons our fingers when we vape.
It is generally the one who does not see herself that poisons us the most. It is mainly due to the positioning of the capillary. Because it plays a very important role in conveying the circulation and evaporation of the liquid, but it must be positioned judiciously to avoid leakage.
Each atomizer has its own format, and offers precise capillary placement. Although this location is different on each model, the capillary must nevertheless, on ALL models, obstruct the passage of the liquid. So that the liquid does not pass until the time of suction and evaporation.
What Happens When You Vape ?
At the time of aspiration, we switch to evaporate the liquid. At this time, the capillary is filled with juice to compensate for the vaporized one. The air circuit keeps a certain balance. Because any atomizer must be well "calibrated" (balanced) to function properly.
The more the airflow is closed, the less air you suck and the higher the resistance must be (1Ω for example) with an applied power which will be low (15 / 18W approximately). Conversely, the more the airflow is open, the more air you suck and the lower the resistance will have to be (0.3Ω for example) with an applied power which will be high (above 30W in this specific case).
In these two examples, the quantity of juice which will be vaporized on contact with the resistance is different. I draw your attention to the fact that the capillary must absolutely close the entire opening, because if this is not the case, with each aspiration, you will engorge the cotton which will not be able to vaporize all the stored juice .
Thus, gradually, with each aspiration, the liquid will gently invade the atomizer tray, to be evacuated later and create these residual leaks.
We must understand this global functioning before going to face our last case.
The gurgling sound you hear at each aspiration, a sign of engorged resistance.
As explained above in the last example, an operating balance is required which must be respected in the atomizer. Not only between the fluid and the atmosphere, but also between the value of the resistance, the power of the vape and the opening of the airflows.
The perfect combination creates the harmony necessary to proportion and compensate for each step.
If all the joints of your atomizer are perfect, if no crack appears on the pyrex and if the capillary is well positioned etc… it is always possible to end up with unpleasant gurgles. Indeed, depending on the value of your resistance, there are adjustments to be made.
- For a conventional assembly with a single Kanthal resistance, if its value is 0.5Ω, the power applied varies within a range (depending on the opening of the airflow), between 30 and 38W approximately. However, you will be able to vape on a power of 20W, but with each aspiration, a large amount of liquid will pass through the capillary into the evaporation chamber, but the power applied will not allow all this fluid to s 'evaporate. A cumulation of juice will stagnate on the plate and the engorged resistance will end up gurgling.
Vaping by underestimating the power (in relation to its resistance), will progressively clog the capillary and the resistance.
- Conversely, if you apply a power of 50W, the resistance will quickly dry up and create what is called a dry hit (burnt taste). Your cotton is so dry that the fibers start to turn brown.
So be careful to properly adjust your power according to your setup and the resistance value obtained. If you put 70W in a 1.7Ω coil, not only will you experience the painful experience of dry hit but, in addition, you may set your cotton on fire! If you vaporize at 15W with a double coil with a resistance of 0.15Ω, it will flow everywhere !!!
The problem of leaks is always a very unpleasant and messy thing that is easy to do without, but it is not inevitable, just a question of balance. I hope this tutorial will help you solve many problems.